58 hours later in Sucre, Bolivia

6 Jul

One last bus, this one on rocky roads tabien and with little kids packed into the luggage compartment.

Bolivian nights are cold and this one was no different.  But I’ve learned quickly and this time I’ve worn half of my entire stock.  Three shirts, two jackets, dude stockings, jeans, and a hat.

I finally arrived into Sucre 58 traveling hours later, not including my two day drinking stop-over in Santa Cruz, and my cranky soul searching layover in Cochabamba.

But let me tell you – it was worth it.  Sucre, a grand colonial city of old is a sight to be seen and the perfect place to study spanish.  Internet cafes a plenty, bars and plazas with free wifi, and an exchange rate that makes living easy and comfortable, this is the place to be.

I’ve hooked up with spanish lessons and spend four hours a day flirting with my professor in spanish – which is great conversational practice, plus I learn a bit about politics and local culture as well.  Got around to learning the past tense today, as well as the present conditional, and I really feel like my spanish is coming along.  Tempted to stay here for a few more weeks at the least for sure.

My living situation is nifty, the school placed me with a real live bolivian family and we have lunch together every afternoon.  It’s a sweet deal and a chance to practice spanish – though i spend most of the meals with my tail between my legs, trying hard to understand the conversation but mostly not understanding much at all, but coming out with the occasional joke every now and then.

My Bolivian mom lives with all of her sisters in a patio type of setup where a bunch of different rooms surround a courtyard which also functions as the living room.

Most of the action takes place in the kitchen though where the grandma starts a soup every morning and where we enjoy three course meals everyday.

On Sundays the mid-day meal is even larger and yesterday I had some of the most delicious fish I’ve ever tasted – though my spanish teacher insists I only thought it was so good because I spent the better half of Saturday throwing up (my own special fireworks for America’s independence day) and was thus really hungry for some food on Sunday. She might have had a point.

This Sunday was also the occasion for a taste of corizon de vaco, or a cow’s heart.  I’ve never liked tongue because it looked too much like tongue but here I was, holding a huge life sized heart in my hand, complete with four chambers and large chanels for where the arteries might have been.  Not the best thing I’ve ever tasted, and certainly one with the strangest texture, I’m not sure if I’ll ever be inclined to eat it again – that is unless I have to eat it again as to not insult my host family.

But overall, I really like the setup here.  Learning spanish and being a part of a university enviornment, I’ve met some really intelligent kids here that have humbled me, but which have also showed me that there does exist a type of individual that I get on along great with.  And that’s so far which has seperated bolivia from the rest of my travels – that the travelers here are much more political, and much more interesting as well.

And as a I wrap up my cigarette and beer for the night, so should I wrap up this long tale of my first week in Sucre.  More sure to come soon.

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